Behind the Label

Author: Ruby Cooper

The fast fashion industry is growing at an alarming rate, fuelled by a constant demand for cheap, trending clothing. Each day, thousands of new garments appear online and in stores, encouraging us to buy more and think less about where our clothes come from (Sustainability Directory, 2025). However, behind the low prices and "daily drops" lies a devastating reality: millions of children are driven into exploitative conditions to fulfil consumer demand.

Taken away from their right to a childhood, an education and freedom, children work long hours in dangerous conditions to fulfil our demands as a consumer. The future of fashion must change to give children a chance at a future and a childhood experience filled with joy, education, and endless possibilities. As consumers, we need to start looking beyond the convincing promotional strategies of brands and £100 Shein hauls to discover what’s truly hidden behind the labels of the clothes we often thoughtlessly purchase.

This blog post summarises the key findings from the "Behind the Label" zine by Ruby Cooper, exploring the root causes of Child Labour and how we can work towards more sustainable supply chains.

Root Causes of Child Labour

Child Labour is defined as work that harms a child's development and deprives them of their dignity. While it is a global issue, it is particularly prevalent in regions classified as low-income by the World Bank, such as Sub-Saharan Africa. The primary drivers include:

  • A gap between household income and necessary expenditures, and resulting lack of access to services, are amongst the main reasons children end up in work.

  • Limited access to education reinforces the cycle of Child Labour.

  • In some communities, parents may perceive Child Labour positively, believing it builds independence, despite the negative health implications.

The Human Cost of Fast Fashion

Fast fashion brands often move collections from design to the shop floor in as little as 10 to 15 days. This rapid pace puts immense pressure on factories to produce garments as cheaply and quickly as possible.

  • Children work at all stages of the supply chain. However, while often hidden, agriculture accounts for 70% of all Child Labour, where children are exposed to high temperatures and harmful pesticides.

    • Agriculture is a key part of the fashion supply chain, as it is where raw materials, including cotton and wool, are sourced.

  • Real stories, such as that of survivor Nasreen, highlight workers labouring under inhumane conditions, forced to pull 12 to 15-hour shifts for less than $2 a day in factories filled with hazardous dyes.

  • Child Labour violates all four pillars of sustainability; social, economic, environmental, and cultural.

Leveraging Technology: An Interview with Eleanor Harry

Eleanor Harry, founder of HACE, uses AI and data to identify Child Labour risks within global supply chains. Her work highlights a significant gap in corporate responsibility:

  • Many brands avoid looking for Child Labour risks to protect their reputations or to easily shift blame down the supply chain.

  • Companies like H&M and Kontoor Brands are noted by HACE for better public disclosure regarding their supply chains, though transparency does not guarantee an absence of Child Labour.

  • Social sustainability often gets pushed aside in favour of environmental concerns, but it deserves equal urgency.

How You Can Make a Difference

Ending Child Labour requires collective action from governments, investors, and consumers. As a consumer, you can:

  • Shop second-hand, directly reducing the demand for the constant stream of new fast-fashion products.

  • Instead of only boycotting, demand transparency and accountability from your favourite brands.

  • Awareness is the critical first step toward change.

Read the full report here: Behind the Label Zine

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